Saturday, November 11, 2006

The north coast

I left Lima on Monday night to explore some of Peru´s north coast before crossing the border to Ecuador, which I expect to do at the beginning of next week. I´m currently in Máncora near the border, and earlier in the week I spent a few days in Trujillo, Peru´s third largest city. The north coast of Peru has been largely undiscovered by tourists, which makes it a nice break from the well carved Lima to Cusco gringo trail. Life is more laid back here.

Trujillo is about halfway from Lima to Ecuador, situated in the coastal desert. It´s not until you step off the nightbus into Trujillo´s surroundings that you really believe it´s situated in desert. The city is flanked on one side by the Pacific ocean, and on the other by huge sand dunes rearing up to the Andean foothills. It´s quite a sight. The area receives just 6mm of rain per year, unless it´s an El Niño year, where it receives rather more. The impact of El Niño on the area is incredible - every few years when it hits, bridges in the area are washed away and many towns on the North Coast are partially destroyed.

Trujillo is situated near the ancient Chimu city of Chan Chan, the biggest pre Columbian city in the Americas. I stayed at a guesthouse run by a lovely Peruvian lady and her English husband, who provide excellent tours of Chan Chan and the nearby Pyramid of the Moon, a Moche monument. Here are some photos.

Trujillo´s spacious Plaza de Armas, flanked by beautiful colonial buildings

The desert in which Trujillo sits

Extraordinarily well preserved Moche art at the Pyramid of the Moon

Long lines of original Moche art at the pyramid

Chan Chan

Michael, our English guide, talks us over the history of this huge ancient Adobe city, eventually conquered by the Incas

On Thursday night I took a bus to Máncora and arrived here yesterday morning. It is permanently sunny here at this time of the year, indeed most of the year, being so close to the Equator, and is a popular holiday resort for Peruvians. Yesterday evening those of us staying at my hostel went out for some food and drinks, which was good fun. All the food here is fresh, probably pulled out of the ocean only a few hours before.

Would you care to elaborate on my pasteurized water, sir?

The beach

I am going to stay here for another couple of days, making the most of being near the beach, before heading to Ecuador for more trekking (and volunteering if I can find it) in a few days. Thanks to all of you for your emails and blog comments; it´s really great to hear from you.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Did you try the 'delicious ice cream and cremoladas', I wonder? On a par with Ben & Jerry's? ;-)

We're following your every step, Mike, and wishing you well wherever you are.

Anonymous said...

Love the comedy poster!

Please can you send some of the sunshine here- I'll happily trade you for some rain! It's reet cold in Cumbria!

je love ya! x

Unknown said...

The KEF say hello!

Looks like you're having a cracking time. I won't type what Tim said (it was rude).

The postcard- Rock! Thanks!

Be in touch...

LLM

Legs, Indiana and Mears

Anonymous said...

Hi Mike!

Sounds like you're having an excellent time. Fab pictures keep em coming.

I'm sat in a boring office somewhere in central London and it's dark already so keep us updated on yer travels to brighten our day!

Cheerio for now
Muz